AZELAIC ACID

CAS No.: 123-99-9
EC No.: 204-669-1

Synonyms:
METATAGS : Azelaic Acid; Anchoic acid;Emerox 1144; Lepargylic acid; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Azelainic acid; Azelaic acid, technical grade; Emerox 1110; 1,9-Nonanedioic acid; 1,7-Dicarboxyheptane; n-Nonanedioic acid; Emery's L-110; Skinoren;ZK-62498; Azelaic Acit; Azelaicacid; Azelic Acid; Azelac Acid; Azelaik Acid; Azelaik Acit; AzelaKc Acit; Azelainic acid; Azelainic acit; Azelainik acid; Azelainik acit , Nonanedioic acid ; Nonane dioic acid; No nanedioic acid ; Nona nedioic acid ; Nonane dioicacid; Nonanedioicacid; 1,7-Dicarboxyheptane ; Azelainsaure; Azela insaure; Azela insaur; Azelain saure ; Azel ainsaure ; Azelinsaure, Aze lainsaure , Azelainsure ; Azelain sure; Azel insaure ; 1,9-Nonanedioic acid; n-Nonanedioic acid; Anchoic acid; Lepargylic acid; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Azelainic acid; 1,7-Dicarboxyheptane ; azelaic; Skinoren;ZK-62498; emerox 1144; emerox 1110; Emerox 1144; Emerox 1110; Azelainsure; ANCHOIC ACID; AZELAIC ACID; 123-99-9 ; Azelaic acid; NONANEDIOIC ACID; Finacea; Azelex; Anchoic acid; Skinoren ; Acide azélaïque Nonadioic acid Finacea nonanedioic acid 1; 9-Nonanedioic acid; Nonanedioic acid; Azelaic acid, technical grade; Lepargylic acid; Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Nonanedioic acid Azelaic acid; Empol 1144; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid; Emerox 1144; Emerox 1110; Ammonium Hydrogen Azelate; Azelaic Acid 99% ; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic, Nonanedioic acid ; Nonanedioic acid; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid ; acide nonanedioïque ; Acido azelaico ; Azalaic Acid; Azelaate ; Azel;1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid; 1,9-NONANEDIOIC ACID; 1101094 ; 17265-13-3 ; 19619-43-3; 204-669-1 ; 26776-28-3 ; 27825-99-6; 32733-99-6 ; 4-02-00-02055 ; 52457-54-2 ; 9005-49-6 ; A-9800; Acide azélaïque; acide azelaique ; Acide azelaique ; Ácido azelaico; Ãcido azelaico; Acido azelaico ; Acidum acelaicum; Acidum azelaicum; Acnean; Acnean ; Acnederm; Acne-Derm; Acnederm Acne-Derm ; Acnesafe; Acnesafe ; AHI; Aknoren; Aknoren AMI; Ami ; anchoic acid; Arbonid; Arbonid ; AZ1; Azelaic acid ; azelaicacid; Azelainsäure; Azelainsaeure; Azelainsäure; Azelate; Azelex; Azelex®; Azelex®|ZK-62498; BSPBio_001756; CM 1980000; EINECS 204-669-1; Emerox 1110; Emerox 1144; Emery's L-110 ,Finacea [Wiki]; Finacea ; Finevin; Finevin Heptanedicarboxylic acid; IDI1_000532; lepargylic acid; Lopac0_000051; MFCD00004432 , NCGC00093565-02; NCGC00093565-03; NCGC00093565-04; NCGC00093565-06; n-nonanedioic acid, Nonandisäure; Nonandisäure; Nonanedioate; NONANEDIOC ACID; Nonanedioic acid, homopolymer; Nonanedionic acid; Pharmakon1600-01500648; Skinorem; Skinoren; Skinoren ; SPECTRUM1500648; Spectrum5_001304; UNII-F2VW3D43YT; Zumilin; 1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic acid; 1,9-Nonanedioic acid; Acide azelaique, acido azelaico; Anchoic acid; azelaic acid; Azelainsaure; Emerox 1144; Emery 1110; Empol 1144; Lepargylic acid; n-Nonanedioic acid; Nonandioic acid; Nonanedioic acid; NSC 19493; Skinoren; ZK 62498

AZELAIC ACID

Production
Azelaic acid is industrially produced by the ozonolysis of oleic acid. The side product is nonanoic acid. It is produced naturally by Malassezia furfur (also known as Pityrosporum ovale), a yeast that lives on normal skin. The bacterial degradation of nonanoic acid gives azelaic acid.

Biological function
In plants, azelaic acid serves as a "distress flare" involved in defense responses after infection. It serves as a signal that induces the accumulation of salicylic acid, an important component of a plant's defensive response.

Polymers and related materials
Esters of this dicarboxylic acid find applications in lubrication and plasticizers. In lubricant industries it is used as a thickening agent in lithium complex grease. With hexamethylenediamine, azelaic acid forms Nylon-6,9, which finds specialized uses as a plastic.

Medical
Azelaic acid is used to treat mild to moderate acne, both comedonal acne and inflammatory acne. It belongs to a class of medication called dicarboxylic acids. It works by killing acne bacteria that infect skin pores. It also decreases the production of keratin, which is a natural substance that promotes the growth of acne bacteria. Azelaic acid is also used as a topical gel treatment for rosacea, due to its ability to reduce inflammation. It clears the bumps and swelling caused by rosacea. 

Whitening agent
Azelaic acid has been used for treatment of skin pigmentation including melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in those with darker skin types. It has been recommended as an alternative to hydroquinone.As a tyrosinase inhibitor, azelaic acid reduces synthesis of melanin. According to one report of 1988 azelaic acid (in combination with zinc sulfate) in vitro showed to be a potent (90% inhibition) 5α-Reductase inhibitor, similar to the hair loss drugs finasteride and dutasteride.[non-primary source needed] Middle 80s in vitro research evaluating acid's depigmenting (whitening) capability concluded it is effective (cytotoxic to melanocytes) only at high concentrations.

More recent review claimed 20% AzA being more potent than 4% hydroquinon after period of application for three months without latter's adverse effects and even more effective if applied along with tretinoin for the same period of time.

Treating Acne with Azelaic Acid
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye.

It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, which make it effective in the treatment of skin conditions like acne and rosacea. The acid can prevent future outbreaks and clean bacteria from your pores that causes acne.

Azelaic acid is applied to your skin and is available in gel, foam, and cream form. 

Because it takes some time to take effect, azelaic acid by itself isn’t typically a dermatologist’s first choice for treating acne. The acid also has some side effects, such as skin burning, dryness, and peeling.

Uses of azelaic acid for acne

Azelaic acid for acne scars
Some people use azelaic to treat acne scarring in addition to active outbreaks. Azelaic acid encourages cell turnover, which is a way to reduce how severe scarring appears.

It also prevents what’s known as melanin synthesis, the ability of your skin to produce pigments that can vary your skin’s tone.

If you’ve tried other topical medications to help with scarring or blemishes that’re slow to heal, azelaic acid might help. More research is needed to understand who this treatment works best for and how effective it can be.

Other uses for azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is also used for other skin conditions, such as hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and skin lightening.

Azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation
After a breakout, inflammation can result in hyperpigmentation on some areas of your skin. Azelaic acid stops discolored skin cells from populating.

A pilot study from 2011 showed azelaic acid can treat acne while evening out hyperpigmentation triggered by acne. Further research on skin of color has also shown that azelaic acid is safe and beneficial for this use.

Azelaic acid for skin lightening
The same property that makes azelaic acid effective for the treatment of inflammatory hyperpigmentation also enables it to lighten skin that’s discolored by melanin.

Using azelaic acid for skin lightening in patchy or blotchy areas of your skin due to melanin has been found effective, according to an older study.

Azelaic acid for rosacea
Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, making it an effective treatment for symptoms of rosacea. Clinical studies demonstrate that azelaic acid gel can continually improve the appearance of swelling and visible blood vessels caused by rosacea.

It’s always important to wear sunscreen when you go outside, but be especially mindful to wear SPF products when you’re using azelaic acid. Since it can thin your skin, your skin is more sensitive and prone to sun damage.

According to older research, azelaic acid cream may be as effective as benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin (Retin-A) for the treatment of acne. While azelaic acid results are similar to those of benzoyl peroxide, it’s also more expensive.

Azelaic acid also works more gently than alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid.

While these other acids are strong enough to be used on their own in chemical peels, azelaic acid isn’t. This means that while azelaic acid is less likely to irritate your skin, it also has to be used consistently and given time to take effect.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that’s milder than some more popular acids used to treat acne.

While the results of treatment with azelaic acid might not be obvious right away, there is research that points to this ingredient as effective.

Acne, uneven skin tone, rosacea, and inflammatory skin conditions have all been shown to be effectively treated with azelaic acid.

Everything You Need to Know About Azelaic Acid for Skin
It’s a mystery why some great skincare ingredients fly under the radar, despite research proving them more than worthy of your attention. Azelaic Acid is one of those ingredients! A great deal of research has shown that azelaic acid can significantly diminish the appearance of skin blemishes, help fade post-acne marks and other discolorations, refine skin’s surface, and reveal a more even skin tone. It can even reduce skin sensitivity and is compatible with any skin type. In short, azelaic acid is an ingredient you need to know about.

What is Azelaic Acid?
Chemically, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (but don’t be afraid: this type of acid is your friend). It works on skin as a gentle leave-on exfoliant which helps unclog pores and refine skin's surface. Azelaic acid also significantly lessens factors in skin that lead to sensitivity and bumps and delivers antioxidant benefits.

Azelaic acid can be derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, but it’s the lab-engineered form that is typically used in skincare products because of its stability and effectiveness.

Benefits of Azelaic Acid in Skin Care Products
Azelaic acid products in concentrations of 10% or less aren’t easy to find, as very few brands have discovered its powerful skincare benefits, perhaps because it’s just such a tricky ingredient to formulate properly. If not formulated properly, the texture may be grainy, which could be problematic for skin.

If you’re wondering whether to choose a cosmetic azelaic acid skin care product or a prescription version, research has shown that a 10% concentration can still improve many of the visible imperfections some of us struggle with, from bumps to dull, uneven skin tone and various concerns related to aging.

The Science Behind Azelaic Acid Skin Care Products
Researchers have a theory on how azelaic acid works its skin-improving magic. What's suspected is that azelaic acid works by inhibiting misbehaving elements on and within skin's uppermost layers. Left unchecked, these troublemakers lead to persistent, visible skin imperfections (like brown patches and post-blemish marks), dull skin tone, and signs of sensitivities. It seems azelaic acid has a radar-like ability to interrupt or inhibit what's causing skin to act up. Skin "hears" the message azelaic acid sends and responds favorably, which leads to skin that looks remarkably better, no matter your age, skin type, or concerns.

The ongoing research on azelaic acid led us to formulate our 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. The azelaic acid within targets a wide range of skin imperfections and is formulated with 0.5% salicylic acid for a bit of a pore-refining nudge. The 10% Azelaic Acid Booster also contains a soothing complex of brightening plant extracts plus skin-restoring adenosine, an energizing ingredients that visibly reduces signs of aging.

Adding the 10% Azelaic Acid Booster to your routine is easy: it can be applied once or twice daily after cleansing, toning, and exfoliating. Apply on its own or mix with your favorite serum or moisturizer. It's fine to apply it to the entire face, or you can target blemished areas as needed. During the day, finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater. 

The booster isn't an azelaic acid cream or azelaic acid gel; instead it's a gel-cream hybrid that's compatible with all skin types and can be used with any of our other products, including our exfoliants, which might lead you to wonder how azelaic acid compares to AHA and BHA exfoliants.

How Does Azelaic Acid Compare to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) or Salicylic Acid (BHA)?
These three ingredients have similarities, but also some interesting differences. Although azelaic acid can exfoliate skin when properly formulated (just like for AHAs and BHA, the product’s pH range matters), it doesn’t exfoliate the same way or with the same level of effectiveness as ingredients like glycolic acid and lactic acid (AHAs) or salicylic acid (BHA).

On the other hand, azelaic acid offers additional benefits that AHA and BHA ingredients don’t provide, especially when it comes to improving a markedly uneven skin tone and certain other skin issues.

There’s no reason you can’t use an AHA or BHA exfoliant along with an azelaic acid product. In fact, this combination can be ideal for addressing the look of multiple skin concerns, from bumps to uneven skin tone to age-related concerns you may be struggling with.

Salicylic acid, Vitamin C, retinol and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a few popular ingredients that have reigned supreme in skin care products. However, according to Rachel Maiman, MD, a cosmetic and general dermatologist at Marmur Medical in New York, azelaic acid is quite beneficial for your skin and increasingly popular but an often "overlooked" and "under-the-radar" skin care ingredient. So what exactly is this emerging skin care ingredient?

Azelaic acid is a compound found in wheat, rye and barley that can help treat acne and rosacea because it soothes inflammation, according to Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital. Azelaic acid treats sunspots and melasma because it blocks the production of "abnormal pigmentation," he says.

However, Maiman says azelaic acid is "typically the lab-engineered form that is used in skin care products, owing to its being more stable and effective." She adds that "much of the research" on topical azelaic acid is for prescription-strength formulas with 15- to 20-percent concentrations. While lower-grade options that are available over-the-counter (OTC) can work, she typically recommends combining azelaic acid with other ingredients because she finds it is "much more effective than when used alone."

What does azelaic acid do to your skin?
Downie says that azelaic acid is also a tyrosinase inhibitor, meaning it can prevent hyperpigmentation because it interferes with melanin production. "It's anti-inflammatory for the acne and it's anti-pigment because it blocks tyrosinase. If you have a pimple and you're prone to getting dark spots after your pimple, azelaic acid would be a perfect opportunity for you," she says. Downie "strongly recommends" azelaic acid for hair bumps, pimples and overall evening of skin tone if you have dark patches on your skin. Caren Campbell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco, adds that azelaic acid is an antibacterial antioxidant that decongests clogged pores.

Paul Jarrod Frank, MD, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of the PFRANKMD, says azelaic acid is a more gentle exfoliant than other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), including glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids. Frank doesn’t recommend layering azelaic acid with Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid as both BHAs and AHAs will increase the chances of dryness and irritation. Zeichner adds: "Unlike other acids, azelaic acid does not make you sensitive to the sun." However, he cautions against becoming lackadaisical about wearing sunscreen. "If you are using azelaic acid, you definitely should be religious about applying sunscreen. Even low levels of UV light can promote pigmentation and undo what you have accomplished with your azelaic acid," explains Zeichner.

Who could benefit from azelaic acid
Downie says azelaic acid is "great" for those with combination or oily skin, who are "not so sensitive." She explains that azelaic acid is in class B, meaning it's safe to use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, but it's still not in class A, aka OTC. She advises women who are pregnant or breastfeeding check with their OBGYN before incorporating azelaic acid into their skin care routine. "I tell people I'm okay with you being on azelaic acid through your pregnancy for acne or your cosmeceutical skin care, as long as your OBGYN is. If they're not, I'm not. And if they are, I am," she says. Downie adds that she "used it (azelaic acid) all through" her pregnancy 17 years ago.

Maiman agrees, and calls azelaic acid “one of few topicals that is safe for use in both pregnancy and breastfeeding, and is always an ingredient I recommend to women who have childbearing in mind.” She adds it’s “very difficult” for pregnant and breastfeeding women to treat acne and melasma because “a vast majority of treatments dermatologists typically use — both topical and oral — are considered unsafe or lack data necessary to conclude there is no risk to a developing fetus and or infant.”

How to use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid may be used alone or paired with other soothing and brightening ingredients like niacinamide, hydroxy acids or antioxidants, says Zeichner. "It generally can be combined with other products because azelaic acid is a stable molecule," he says. Frank, who is also author of “The Pro-Aging Playbook,” likes to pair azelaic acid with hyaluronic acid to provide moisture. Campbell prefers pairing azelaic acid with a moisturizer and a gentle cleanser or sulfur wash if you have acne or rosacea.