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PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearates appearance is that of a clear, colorless liquid with a thick consistency, and it can be found in various personal care items such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners. The chemical formula of PEG-90 is C4H10O45.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is a synthetic, multifunctional ingredient that is commonly used in cosmetic and personal care formulations due to its ability to act as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and skin-conditioning agent.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is produced by the chemical reaction of isostearic acid (a branched-chain fatty acid) and glycerin (a natural humectant and backbone of many lipids), which is then further modified by the addition of approximately 90 units of ethylene oxide through a process called ethoxylation.
CAS Number: 84775-66-6
EINECS Number: 283-895-2
Synonyms: PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate, 0MLT3369F0, EMALEX GWIS-190, GLYCERETH-90 ISOSTEARATE, POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (90) GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE, POLYOXYETHYLENE (90) GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE, RefChem:8441Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, ext., GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT , XTRACT, LICORICEEXTRACTPOWDER, LICORICEROOTPIGMENT, GLYCYRRHIZAURALENSISROOTEXTRACT, GLYCYRRHIZAGLABRAROOTEXTRACT, Einecs 283-895-2, Unii-2788Z9758h
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate are poly condensation products of ethylene glycol, or polymerisation products of ethylene oxide.
The number added to the name refers to the mean number of ethylene oxide units in the substance.
The consistency of the PEG derivatives is increasingly solid with a growing degree of polymerisation.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate with a mean molar mass of up to 600 g/mol are liquid, up to 1,000 g/mol wax-like and from 4,000 g/mol solid wax-like substances.
By mixing solid and liquid components, products of a creamy consistency are obtained which are used as water-free and water rinse-off bases.
With growing molar mass water solubility and hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) of the polyethylene glycols decrease.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearates and their derivates are preferentially used in cosmetic products since they have a broad spectrum of viscosity and solubility properties and have a very good skin tolerance.
As water soluble, non-greasy substances polyethylene glycols are suitable for many cosmetic purposes.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate serve, eg, as glycerol substitute in facial, shaving and hair lotions, as solubilisers and solvents.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is a versatile cosmetic ingredient widely used in skincare and hair care products.
This water-soluble, high-molecular-weight polymer is derived from ethylene oxide.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate functions primarily as a surfactant, emulsifier, and viscosity enhancer, helping to stabilize formulations, promote even spreading, and improve texture.
Because of its amphiphilic structure—meaning it has both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) parts—PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate can stabilize emulsions, allowing oil and water to mix smoothly, which is particularly important in lotions, creams, and cleansing products.
In skincare formulations, it not only helps improve the texture and spreadability of products but also enhances skin feel by imparting softness and a smooth finish.
In shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers, it is often used as a co-emulsifier and mild surfactant, helping to reduce irritation from harsher surfactants while improving foam quality and product stability.
Additionally, because it is derived from fatty acids, it can provide a conditioning effect that helps protect the skin’s barrier and reduce dryness.
While generally considered safe for use in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics, the presence of PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate in its structure means it can sometimes raise concerns about potential impurities such as ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane if manufacturing processes are not properly controlled.
For this reason, reputable suppliers ensure it is purified to meet international cosmetic safety standards.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is an effective thickening agent for enhancing the viscosity of liquid body cleansing agents.
Besides its good thickening properties, OXETAL SE can be used in aqueous formulations and can be added at every step.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearates excellent solubility makes it possible for use in continuous production processes.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is clearly and easily soluble in water
Odor: at 100.00 %. licorice
Odor Type: licorice
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is a highly functional, versatile, and widely used ingredient that plays a critical role in creating stable, smooth, and effective cosmetic products.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearates ability to act simultaneously as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and skin conditioner makes it especially valuable for formulators who aim to develop products that not only remain stable on the shelf but also provide a luxurious application experience for consumers.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is a chemically modified ester that originates from natural sources such as glycerin and fatty acids, particularly isostearic acid, which is a branched-chain fatty acid often derived from vegetable oils.
Through the process of ethoxylation, around ninety units of ethylene oxide are added to the molecule, which significantly increases its water solubility and allows it to function in both aqueous and oily environments.
This modification turns a naturally hydrophobic compound into a versatile emulsifying agent that can bridge the gap between water and oil phases in cosmetic formulations.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearates primary function is as an emulsifier, which means it helps stabilize mixtures of oil and water that would normally separate.
This is crucial in products such as creams, lotions, sunscreens, and serums, where a smooth and consistent texture is desired.
Because of its structure, it also works as a solubilizer, allowing small amounts of oils, essential oils, or fragrances to disperse evenly in water-based systems, preventing cloudiness or separation.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is used as a skin-conditioning agent, imparting a soft and non-greasy after-feel, which enhances the sensory profile of many skincare products.
In skincare, it is used in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, and sunscreens to ensure stability while leaving the skin feeling hydrated and smooth.
In haircare, it helps condition the hair, reduce static, and improve combability when included in shampoos, conditioners, and styling products.
In cleansing formulations such as body washes, liquid soaps, and facial cleansers, it can reduce irritation caused by stronger surfactants, making the product milder and more suitable for sensitive skin while also contributing to a creamy foam and pleasant texture.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is generally recognized as safe for cosmetic use when manufactured according to strict quality standards.
However, as with many PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate-derived ingredients, there are theoretical concerns about the presence of impurities such as ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane, which are unwanted byproducts of the ethoxylation process.
Cosmetic ingredient suppliers typically remove these impurities through purification steps, and international regulations such as those from the EU and FDA set limits to ensure safety.
Studies and safety assessments by cosmetic ingredient review boards have concluded that when properly purified, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate does not pose a health risk and can be safely used in both rinse-off and leave-on applications.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate belongs to the family of polyethylene glycol (PEG) esters, which are synthesized compounds combining hydrophilic polyethylene glycol chains with lipophilic fatty acids and glycerides.
Its structure contains a glyceryl isostearate backbone, which provides lipid-like characteristics, and approximately 90 ethylene oxide units, which provide strong hydrophilic properties.
This balance of water-attracting and oil-attracting groups gives it remarkable amphiphilic properties, enabling it to reduce the surface tension between oil and water and to stabilize complex formulations.
The high number of ethylene oxide groups (90) makes it more water-soluble compared to lower PEG versions of glyceryl isostearate, meaning it can be used effectively in water-heavy cosmetic systems.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate ensures oil and water remain mixed together in lotions, creams, and emulsions, preventing phase separation during storage or application.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate allows fragrances, botanical extracts, and lipophilic active ingredients to dissolve evenly in aqueous solutions without precipitation or cloudiness.
Uses:
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is widely used in face creams, moisturizers, anti-aging serums, and sunscreens, where it helps blend oils, actives, and water into a smooth emulsion while providing a non-greasy feel after application.
Added to shampoos, conditioners, and styling creams, it improves hair softness, reduces static, and enhances manageability by coating the hair shaft with a conditioning layer.
Incorporated into facial cleansers, liquid soaps, and body washes, it provides a luxurious creamy foam, reduces dryness, and makes the cleansing action gentler on sensitive skin.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is used in liquid foundations, BB creams, and makeup primers to ensure pigment dispersion, smooth texture, and stability of oil–water mixtures.
Sometimes found in medicated creams or ointments, where its emulsifying and solubilizing ability helps deliver active pharmaceutical ingredients effectively to the skin.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is widely used in skincare formulations because it provides both emulsification and skin-conditioning benefits.
In moisturizers and face creams, it allows oils, botanical extracts, and water-based ingredients to remain stable in a single product, preventing separation and ensuring a uniform texture from the first use until the end of the product’s shelf life.
In sunscreens, it helps solubilize UV filters and blend them seamlessly with water-soluble ingredients, which improves the overall effectiveness of the product while ensuring an even application across the skin.
In serums and lightweight gels, it contributes to a smoother spread, enhances absorption of actives, and prevents sticky or greasy after-feel, which is often a consumer concern with highly concentrated products.
In shampoos and conditioners, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate functions as a conditioning and emulsifying agent that improves product performance and hair feel.
It helps emulsify oils, silicones, and conditioning agents into the aqueous base, ensuring even distribution during washing or conditioning.
By coating the hair shaft lightly, it reduces static and frizz, making hair easier to detangle and style without weighing it down.
In leave-in conditioners and styling products, it provides slip and manageability, which is especially beneficial for dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair that needs gentle conditioning.
Cleansing formulations such as body washes, liquid soaps, and facial cleansers frequently incorporate PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate because of its ability to act as a mild co-surfactant.
By blending with stronger cleansing agents, it reduces potential irritation while still contributing to effective dirt and oil removal.
At the same time, it creates a soft and creamy foam that enhances the user experience, making the cleanser feel luxurious and gentle rather than harsh or stripping.
This makes it suitable for products marketed toward sensitive skin, baby care, or daily use formulations where mildness is an important selling point.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is also found in decorative cosmetics such as liquid foundations, BB creams, and primers.
Its role here is to ensure proper emulsification of oils, pigments, and water, giving the final product a smooth texture, consistent color, and stable shelf life.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate helps disperse pigments evenly, which prevents patchiness or streaking during application, and it also contributes to a silky finish on the skin.
In long-wear formulations, it helps maintain stability, so the product resists separating or becoming uneven even after several hours of wear.
In medicated creams, ointments, and topical treatments, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is used to stabilize formulations that often contain both hydrophilic and lipophilic active ingredients.
Its emulsifying ability ensures that medicinal agents are distributed uniformly throughout the product, allowing for accurate dosing and consistent therapeutic effects with each application.
Because it is also considered mild and skin-compatible, it is suitable for sensitive skin or compromised skin barriers, which are often the target of medical treatments.
Beyond mainstream skincare and haircare, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate may be included in specialized cosmetic products such as after-sun lotions, shaving creams, and baby care products, where gentleness, stability, and sensory performance are particularly important.
In after-sun lotions, it helps blend soothing oils with hydrating water phases to calm and moisturize the skin.
In shaving creams, it contributes to the cream’s rich texture and improves spreadability, ensuring a smoother shave.
In baby care products, it is valued for its mildness and for helping to reduce irritation risks, making the product more suitable for delicate skin.
The uses of PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate span across nearly every category of cosmetics and personal care because it improves both the technical performance (stability, solubility, emulsification) and the consumer experience (texture, mildness, skin feel) of products.
Whether in daily moisturizers, luxury serums, gentle cleansers, conditioning haircare, or even pharmaceutical creams, it ensures that the formulation remains stable, effective, and pleasant to use over time.
Safety Profile:
Cosmetic safety authorities, such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), generally recognize PEG-based esters like PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate as safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on applications, provided they are manufactured according to quality standards.
The primary concern lies in process-related impurities, particularly ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, which are byproducts of ethoxylation and are considered potentially hazardous.
Responsible manufacturers employ rigorous purification techniques, such as vacuum stripping, to minimize or eliminate these impurities to levels well within safety limits.
When purified correctly, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate has no evidence of causing skin sensitization, irritation, or systemic toxicity in consumers.
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when manufactured according to established purity standards.
It is not classified as an acutely toxic substance, and under normal concentrations used in skincare or haircare, it does not usually cause significant irritation or allergic reactions.
However, as with many polyethylene glycol (PEG)-based ingredients, the main hazards are not from the ingredient itself but from possible impurities formed during its production process.
During the ethoxylation process, which introduces polyethylene glycol chains, unwanted by-products such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane may form.
Both of these compounds are of toxicological concern — ethylene oxide is recognized as a human carcinogen, and 1,4-dioxane is classified as a probable human carcinogen and a potential groundwater contaminant.
Although these substances are not intentionally present in PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate, traces may remain if the ingredient is not properly purified.
Reputable suppliers apply purification methods, such as vacuum stripping and distillation, to minimize these residues to levels considered safe by international regulatory authorities.
