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Emulsifiers are often used as auxiliaries in cosmetics. They make it possible to bring components that are actually immiscible with one another, such as oil and water, into a permanent emulsion. In cosmetic products, both aqueous and oily care and active ingredients can be used in a single product. Emulsifiers are able to do this because their molecules consist of a fat-loving (lipophilic) and a water-loving (hydrophilic) part. This allows you to reduce the interfacial tension that actually exists between two incompatible substances such as fat and water. Emulsifiers are used in particular for creams, lotions and cleaning agents. In the meantime, however, emulsifiers are much more than just auxiliary substances that keep an emulsion stable. Fatty acid esters based on sugar, lecithin or glycerol monodistearate, for example, help to improve the skin's moisture balance and are therefore also considered cosmetic active ingredients.
CAS 51033-31-9
EC -
SYNONYM
Dodecanoic acid monoester with triglycerol; Triglycerol monolaurate; Triglyceryl monolaurate; Triglycerin monolaurate;Dodecanoic acid monoester with triglycerol;Dodecanoic acid, monoester with 3,3'-((2-hydroxy-1,3-propanediyl)bis(oxy))bis(1,2-propanediol); Dodecanoic acid, monoester with triglycerol; Hydramol tgl ester; Polyglyceryl-3 laurate; Polyglyceryl-3 laurate [INCI]; Sunsoft A-121C; Sunsoft A-12C; Triglycerol laurate; Triglyceryl monolaurate; UNII-Y9ZSR39D0E;;Polyglyceryl-3 laurate;Dodecanoic acid, monoester with 3,3-[(2-hydroxy-1,3-propanediyl) bis (oxy)] bis [1,2-propanediol]; Dodecanoic acid, monoester with triglycerol; Triglyceryl monolaurate; Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate ; Decaglyceryl Monolaurate ; Polyglyceryl-3 laurate; Hydramol tgl ester; Sunsoft A-12C; Sunsoft A-121C; Triglyceryl monolaurate; UNII-Y9ZSR39D0E; Y9ZSR39D0E; Polyglyceryl-3 laurate [INCI]; SCHEMBL12061389; Dodecanoic acid, monoester with triglycerol; 4,8-Dioxaundecane-1,2,6,10,11-pentol 1-laurate; [3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropyl] dodecanoate; Dodecanoic acid, monoester with 3,3'-((2-hydroxy-1,3-propanediyl)bis(oxy))bis(1,2-propanediol)
Substance information
This ingredient contains polymerized glycerin (as an alcoholic component). The number after "Polyglyceryl-" indicates the average number of glycerine units.
Laurates are salts or esters of lauric acid (dodecanoic acid).
Function (s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
SURFACTANT (EMULSIFYING) - EMULSIFIER
Enables the formation of finely divided mixtures of oil and water (emulsions)
Background information on use in cosmetics
Emulsifiers are often used as auxiliaries in cosmetics. They make it possible to bring components that are actually immiscible with one another, such as oil and water, into a permanent emulsion. In cosmetic products, both aqueous and oily care and active ingredients can be used in a single product. Emulsifiers are able to do this because their molecules consist of a fat-loving (lipophilic) and a water-loving (hydrophilic) part. This allows you to reduce the interfacial tension that actually exists between two incompatible substances such as fat and water. Emulsifiers are used in particular for creams, lotions and cleaning agents. In the meantime, however, emulsifiers are much more than just auxiliary substances that keep an emulsion stable. Fatty acid esters based on sugar, lecithin or glycerol monodistearate, for example, help to improve the skin's moisture balance and are therefore also considered cosmetic active ingredients.
POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE
POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE is classified as :
Emulsifying
CAS Number 51033-31-9
COSING REF No: 78896
Chem/IUPAC Name: 1,2,3-Propanetriol, homopolymer, dodecanoates (1:1) (3 mol glycerol average molar ratio)
5 Formulations containing POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE
Sun Care: Very Water Resistant Sun Protective Body Cream - SPF 20Guard your skin against sun damage even in extreme outdoor conditions with this very water-resistant protective cream. Novemer™ EC-2 and Pemulen™ TR-2 Polymers work in combination to provide viscosity, stability as well as a pleasant afterfeel. Pemulen™ TR-2 Polymer also contributes to the water resistance. Hydramol™ TGL and Schercemol™ 105 Esters impart emolliency while SilSense® DW-18 Silicone functions as a skin conditioner.
Hair Care: Enriched Hair GlosserAdds shine and tame frizz with this rich, creamy emulsion. Three different esters provide conditioning and gloss without greasiness in this non-silicone formula. Hydramol™ TGL Ester adds emolliency and conditioning to the water phase and serves as a substantive humectant in this product.
Baby Care: Daily Kids Protection Cream - SPF 13This cream can protect kids’ sensitive skin from UV radiation and sunburn. This protective cream contains Novemer™ EC-2 and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymers for thickening, stability and afterfeel. The combination of Schercemol™ 105 and Hydramol™ TGL Esters give emolliency as well as a soft, non-sticky afterfeel.
Decorative cosmetics: Anti-Aging Eye CreamSchercemol™* LL Ester, which is based on alpha-hydroxy acid, has a low coefficient of friction and therefore imparts this anti-aging cream with a high degree of slip. The emulsion quickly breaks to facilitate targeted delivery, because of the high contact angle low spreading Schercemol™* SHS and DISD Esters. A soft afterfeel leaves the skin feeling elegant throughout the day and collagen extract provides moisturization over long-term use.
Toiletries: Shimmery Pomegranate Body PolisherHydramol™* TGL Ester is a water soluble emollient which provides hydration and lasting moisturization in this aesthetically-pleasing body scrub. Hydramol™* PGPD Ester creates a rich, creamy foam. Carbopol®* Ultrez 20 Polymer suspends the exfoliants and effectively thickens in surfactant
PRODUCT
Polyglyceryl-3 laurate
CAS #
51033-31-9
FORMULA
C21H42O8; C18H36O6(C3H6O2)n
NOTES
Polyglyceryl-3 laurate is an Ester of lauric acid and polyglycerin3 Polyglyceryl-3 laurate uses and applications include: Emollient, moisturizer, moisture binder, gloss aid, thickener, softener in colored cosmetics, shampoos, conditioners, bath and shower preparations; gloss aid in lipsticks; thickener, emulsifier in liquid makeup
CLASS
Specialty Chemicals
FUNCTIONS
Emulsifier, Acid
INDUSTRY
Cosmetic
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
What does it do
Hydrating, Surfactant, Moisturizer (Emollient), Emulsifying
How it works
-
Ingredient Family
N/A
Comedogenicity (?)
None
Polyglyceryl-3 laurate
Iupac Name：[3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]-2-hydroxypropyl] dodecanoate
CAS No.：244139-90-0
Molecular Weight：422.6
Molecular Formula：C21H42O8 (isomer)
1. Names and Identifiers
1.1 Synonyms
4,8-Dioxaundecane-1,2,6,10,11-pentol 1-laurate Dodecanoic acid, monoester with 3,3'-((2-hydroxy-1,3-propanediyl)bis(oxy))bis(1,2-propanediol) Dodecanoic acid, monoester with triglycerol Hydramol tgl ester Polyglyceryl-3 laurate Polyglyceryl-3 laurate [INCI] SCHEMBL12061389 Sunsoft A-121C Sunsoft A-12C Triglyceryl monolaurate UNII-Y9ZSR39D0E Y9ZSR39D0E
1.2 Inchi
InChI=1S/C21H42O8/c1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-21(26)29-17-20(25)16-28-15-19(24)14-27-13-18(23)12-22/h18-20,22-25H,2-17H2,1H3
1.3 InChkey
YYYHDIQLLFHAGW-UHFFFAOYSA-N
1.4 Canonical Smiles
CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(COCC(COCC(CO)O)O)O
1.5 Isomers Smiles
CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(COCC(COCC(CO)O)O)O
Every emulsion needs at least one emulsifier and when your customers demand natural you have your work cut out! Further, while more and more manufacturers are going down the plant based, non-ethoxylated route not everyone is and with INCI names being complex and technical sounding, it is tempting to just run and hide rather than try out the new stuff. So, before you get the spade ready it’s time to sit back, relax and listen to a little story about polyglyceryl esters – a group of chemicals that may just save your natural formulating life!
Q) OK, first explain the name for me please?
A) Poly = many and glyceryl = glycerine. Basically this is a polymer (or lots of) glycerine molecules that have been joined together in a way that results in a bigger and more moisturising molecule. It is possible to control not only how long the chain ends up but also where each glycerine joins on (like holding hands). This gives rise to many interesting properties as you will find out if you start using these ingredients.
The ester part comes in when you add a fatty acid (e.g.: lauric/ stearic/ oleic) to the polyglyceryl under alkaline conditions. This breaks enough of the internal bonds to enable the two chemicals to join up forming a new molecule which is now called an ester due to the type of bond created.
They don’t sound so ‘chemical’ now do they?
Q) So what properties do these new ingredients have and why?
A) Well, as you know glycerine is water-loving due to its structure and fatty acids contain long tails which are oil loving. Put both of these onto the one molecule and you get something that can marry up both phases of your formulation – otherwise known as an emulsifier! Modifying the fatty acid chain length and/or the polyglyceryl weight changes the emulsification power. On top of that the vast quantity of glycerol functional groups makes these emulsifiers very moisturising and mild to the skin.
Q) Are polyglyceryl esters always plant-based?
A) Not always as it is possible (but no longer usual) to source both glycerine and fatty acid from animal fats. It is also possible to get both from petroleum and for that reason it is worth asking about the origin of the ingredient before using it – especially if you are making ‘animal/ petroleum free’ claims.
Q) Sounds great, so what is so good about Decaglyceryl Monolaurate!
A) Decaglyceryl Monolaurate is a non-ionic surfactant with a HLB of 14.8 making it highly water-soluble and therefore good to use as a mild cleaning and degreasing additive. It would also be good to pair up with a lower HLB ingredient (something upwards of HLB 8) as part of an emulsifier for oil in water cream or lotion. Finally it could be used to help solubilise small amounts of oil – say essential oils or fragrances into your water phase (forming a micro-emulsion).
Q) You mentioned about pairing it up with another surfactant – what other one would you recommend?
A) Well, that would depend quite a bit on your formulation but to give you an example if you were making a mild baby lotion that contained a little oil in water you may want to mix the Decaglyceryl monolaurate with some Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate to ensure that you get a more robust emulsion. As both of these surfactants have a high HLB they will also help to solubilise any fragrance that you have added – including many essential oils.
Q) What else are polyglyceryl esters used for?
A) They are widely used in the food industry for emulsifying bakery products, keeping chewing gum moist and to replace some fats and are used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry to help hold creams together, modify viscosity of emulsions and disperse and solubilise fragrances and other active ingredients. Overall they are highly regarded due to their mildness, flexibility, moisture holding capacity and biodegradability. They can also be produced sustainably from renewable resources meaning that it won’t just be your skin care product that feels good.
Polyglyceryl esters such as those mentioned above can be found in many of your ‘green’ skin care products.
Look out for the following INCI names on the label:
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate / Laurate (you can also replace the 3 for another number)
Molecular Weight 422.6 g/mol
XLogP3 2.6
Hydrogen Bond Donor Count 4
Hydrogen Bond Acceptor Count 8
Rotatable Bond Count 22
Exact Mass 422.287968 g/mol
Monoisotopic Mass 422.287968 g/mol
Topological Polar Surface Area 126 Ų
Heavy Atom Count 29
Formal Charge 0
Complexity 367
Isotope Atom Count 0
Defined Atom Stereocenter Count 0
Undefined Atom Stereocenter Count 3
Defined Bond Stereocenter Count 0
Undefined Bond Stereocenter Count 0
Covalently-Bonded Unit Count 1
Compound Is Canonicalized Yes
